Rendzevous with History - Mahabalipuram

The Famous Shore Temple at Mahabalipuram

 Mahabalipuram, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is located right on the Coromandel Coast next to Bay of Bengal and was a 7^th century port city of the South Indian dynasty of Pallavas. Around 60 Kms south from the city of Chennai (Tamil Nadu), this is a perfect weekend getaway with a perfect blend of history, a beautiful beach and handicraft shops. 

History

 An 8^th century Tamil text described this place “Kadal Mallai” (Sea Mountain). Another name by which Mahabalipuram has been known to Mariners is “Seven Pagodas” alluding to the seven pagodas that stood on the shore of which only the Shore Temple survives now. This city was actually the 2^nd capital of the Pallavas and was named after the cruel and arrogant king Mahabali. 

                        

During the rule of Pallavas new styles of art and architecture were pioneered, and it is believed that some areas served as the school for young sculptors. Hence one can find various artistic and architectural creations at this site. 

Some Interesting Facts

 

Just before the 2004 Tsunami struck the Indian Ocean, including Bay of Bengal, the water at Mahabalipuram pulled back exposing a straight row of large rocks. Soon after the Tsunami and large stone lion emerged that was dated to 7^th century. 

May have been a community bathing center or a Fountain

Several search operations conducted by the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) and Indian Navy indicated that a large complex of temples were in Mahabalipuram most of which got submerged in the water due to a Tsunami during the 13^th Century.   

How to Reach

 Mahabalipuram is very close to Chennai, approx 55 Kms away from the city and is well connected by road from Chennai. You can also take a train to Chengalpattu (the nearest railway station) and then take taxis from there.

We were a group of 4 people and so hired a cab from Chennai that charged us Rs 2500 for the entire trip.

What to See

 After driving for almost 1.5 hrs we finally reached the site. Surrounded by a beautiful beach, Mahabalipuram is worth seeing. You would me amazed at the marvel of the sculptors who made this beautiful temple complex in the absence of many modern tools and techniques.

The Shore Temple:  

The doors of this temple are locked and one can only peep inside it. The temple is mainly dedicated to Lord Shiva however; there are some statues of Lord Vishnu as well. 

A Carving of Lord Vishnu

The Shore Temple is best viewed from the shores of Mahabalipuram beach. As mentioned earlier, it is the sole surviving part of the 7 temples famously known as the “Seven Pagodas”, of which 6 have already been engulfed by Tsunamis in past. As we stood at the site and looked around we realized how lucky we were to witness this marvelous structure before the Bay of Bengal swallows this as well.

At the temple complex there were multiple statues of Bulls, some complete and few incomplete.

A Bull

The monuments at the site are mostly monolithic rock-cuts.   

 

You can find several styles of architecture as some monuments are modeled on Buddhist Viharas while some resemble Dravidian architecture.

A Lion carved out of a single rock

Mahishasurmardhini Cave Temple: We climbed on top of a small hillock to reach this site. 

View from Mahishasurmardhini Cave Temple

 You would be tempted to click photos here as one can get a beautiful overview of the entire Mahabalipuram site surrounded by the sea from this hillock. This temple is dedicated to Goddess Durga and has scenes from Vedic Puranas depicted on its mandapam.

The Five Rathas: 

 

These have been carved from single piece of rocks and have been named on each of the Five Pandavas (Mahabharata).

Arjuna’s Penance: It is World’s largest Bas-relief and depicts various deities, animals as well as stories from Panchatantra.

After visiting all the monuments at Mahabalipuram, we went to a nearby cafe and had some refreshments before we could leave. While moving around in the area, you can also find plenty of Sculpture shops displaying beautiful carvings out of granite stones. 

While our way back home, I was constantly imagining how the life would have been when this temple complex was alive. The beautiful carvings, organization of the monuments, the roaring sea behind… I just loved my rendezvous with History.

 

 

ROMANCING THE KUMAON HILLS: NAINITAL

The Famous Naini Lake

Also known as the Honeymooner’s Paradise, Nainital is situated at an altitude of 2084 meters above the sea level in the Kumaon Hills. The valley is named on the Naini Lake which is considered to be one of the 64 Shakthi Peeths where parts of charred body of Sati fell on earth. The spot where Sati’s eyes fell came to be called Naini-Tal or lake of the eye. Naina Devi temple can be found on the shore of this lake.

The Rising Sun

I had first been to this place with my parents and decided to come for my Honeymoon to Nainital only. Taking a stroll on the mall road in a chilly atmosphere with the picturesque Naini Lake on your side is highly romantic. In the evening you can find endless honeymoon couples, walking hand-in-hand on the mall road, either shopping for some famous Handmade Candles and other handicrafts or simply sitting near the lake, hugging each other.

How to Reach

There are multiple trains (Ranikhet express, Uttaranchal Sampark Kranti Express, Kathgodam-Dehradun express etc.) from Delhi that come till Kathgodam Junction. Tourists travelling by train can get down either at Haldwani or Kathgodam Junction and take a taxi or bus to Nainital.

We took Ranikhet Express from Purani Delhi Station and reached Kathgodam somewhere around 6 in the morning and took a cab to Nainital. After a 30 minute drive, we reached Nainital. The glimpse of the Lake so early in the morning was ecstatic.

Stay at ALKA- The Lake Hotel

There are infinite options for accommodation in Nainital. If you are travelling in the peak season, booking the rooms in advance is advisable. Most of the hotels are located on the Mall road itself with a view of the Lake while some of them can be found on the hills as well. We chose to stay at “Alka- The Lake Side Hotel” which is one of the best located hotels in Nainital. We had made an advance booking and chose to stay in the Standard room (Rs. 4200/per night). The room was spacious with bamboo walls and a French window overlooking the magnificent Naini Lake. 

The view from my Room

 Apart from this, they also have Economy rooms, Luxury rooms, duplex apartment (Mughal Room) and suites. One can check their website before booking in order to opt for the best option available with them. We slept the whole day, and came out only in the evening for a cozy walk on the mall road. The wind was chilly and I gorged on some aloo chat and Paneer chila to revive my taste buds.

Attractions       
                                                       

Nainital Zoo: Approximately 1Km away from the bus stand, the Nainital Zoo is located on a small hill. Just like any other zoo, one can find animals like the Himalayan Black Bear, Leopard, Siberian Tiger, civet cat etc. You can also spot some exotic parakeets, owls and parrots. Since there is nothing very special about this place, we gave it a miss on our trip.

Caves Garden: It is located near the Kumaun University Campus and is a great place for some adventure activities. There are a number of natural caves here.  You can try to get in and out of these caves for an experience.

Snow-View: It is easily accessible through ropeway.

Naina Peak or China Peak:  It is the highest peak of the town and provides a beautiful view of the snow-laden Himalayas on one side and the lake city on the other. Some of the guides may tell you that the China border is visible from this peak, but trust me this is not true. China is too far to be visible from India.

The Magnificent Himalayas

Naini Devi Temple:  The temple is located on the shores of Naini Lake, the deity being “Ma Naina Devi”.  The temple is very peaceful and you can get a full view of the hill station from this place.

The other Taals: Apart from Naini Lake, Nainital has 4 other natural lakes named Bhimtal, Sattal, Khurpa Taal and Naukuchia Taal (9 cornered lake). All these lakes have a wonderful view of the hill station and also have different myths attached to them. 

Naina Devi Temple

Naukuchiya Lake

Golu Devta ka Mandir: Trip to Nainital is incomplete without visiting Golu Devta’s temple. As per the folklore, if there is any wish, it can be written on a piece of paper and hanged in the temple premises. Don’t forget to hang a bell once your wish has been granted.

Mukhteshwar: It is a pictersque town, around 8200 ft above sea level. The attractions here include a Shiva Temple, Chauli ki Jali and Suicide Point. There is a PWD Guest house in Mukhteshwar that can be booked for a short stay. The major peaks on Himalayas like the Nanga Parbat, Trishul Parbat and Nanda Devi are clearly visible from this spot. 

The PWD Guesthouse at Mukhteshwar

Suicide Point

 Though we had covered most of the tourist attractions, the one that we missed was the Ropeway, Hanuman Garhi and Pangot.

Shopping

Majority of the shops are present on the Mall road where you can find local fast food, Kashmiri emporiums and some beautifully carved candles. Approximately half a kilometer away from the mall road is the Tibetan Market. Here you can find some cheap but beautiful bags, jackets, sweaters, hats, shoes and delicious MOMOs.

We stayed for 4 days in Nainital and returned back to Delhi. I have been to a lot of other hill stations as well but, I haven’t found something as romantic as Nainital. Let me know if you require further information on this Destination.